Fabricating Gender Identity: Analyzing the Evolution of the Highland Kilt and Tartan

Abstract

The Scottish kilt has evolved over generations and has been adopted in various countries; however, despite shifting circumstances and consumer demands, it remains a recognizable and controversial icon. The kilt is now portrayed as a national symbol, but prior to the sixteenth century, the kilt, or belted plaid, was worn only in the Scottish Highlands. The kilt began as the primitive clothing of the Highlander, evolved into a sign of rebellion during the Jacobite Rebellion, and later became a sign of Scottish allegiance to the British army. Finally, through narratives of heroic Highlander warriors, the kilt was transformed into a national symbol of Scotland. This thesis will explore how, over time, the kilt and tartan have evolved from a practical garment to a highly sexualized signifier of both masculinity and femininity. The wearer must adopt this shift whether they choose to acknowledge this inherent sexuality or not. The result is limited gendered identities that focus on the male sex: males are allowed a mainstream heterosexual identity while females are allowed the kilt purely for the male gaze. Key Words: Scotland, Highlander, Lowlands, Kilt, Belted Plaid, Tartan, Gender, Identity, Symbolic Interactionism, Masculinity, Femininity, Fashion